The West Coast heard a faint rumbling, as hordes of chunky boots and mini-skirts went clomping from Los Angeles to Indio, California this weekend for the first week of Coachella. Seismologists say there’s little risk of aftershocks, considering the fast fashion en route aren’t fit to last for a return journey.
Thankfully, pictures last forever! And while the Instagram crowds huddled around pool floats shaped like miscellaneous branded goods, celebrities were onstage miles away in fits both thrown together and meticulously combed over by stylists. The contrast between these sets, small and large, with the festival’s image as a largely influencer-led gathering of brand activations was particularly fascinating.
As we often do at PAPER, I’ve meticulously combed over the first week’s available imagery — the festival has never kept a tighter rein on its digital image rights — for the fits worth talking about. As the Coachella step and repeats bore me to tears, I’ve instead focused on what was presented on its various stages. (With some caveats, of course.) In the shadow of the landmark “Beychella,” the production value of the various headliners and supporting acts varied widely, with Lady Gaga’s full-on arena tour-style set hitting new highs alongside Beyonce’s impact. (The keyword here being alongside, not above.)
I’ve done my best to distill these various forces in the outfits seen below. Shall we?
Charli XCX and Benito Skinner
I’d like to start here, because these two crazy kids are dressed exactly like it’s 2007, and The Hills is currently tearing apart the lives of various blonde women in Los Angeles. Some minor contrivances like the Chanel purse and the specific cut of this skirt aside, these two look like a photograph of a father and his daughter before he surprised everyone and ran off with that partner at the law firm during the second Obama administration. Kidding, of course. Everyone knew he was into men like that when he’d cut his chinos off at the knee.
Jokes aside, Charli XCX made a real stir when she popped up at the afters in a sash poking fun at her spot in the lineup. Since nobody can take a joke anymore, and we’ve already cast mine aside for the moment, I’d like to say two quick things: First, I hope Little Miss Headliner keeps trolling for the rest of her very long career. Second, I think we need a serious inquisition into the proliferation of this specific dress shape with what can only be described as a low-rise belt.
Lorde
In sharp contrast to the Charli XCX’s delicately manicured, free-wheeling energy, Lorde came through like a real carefree individual in slacks and a t-shirt. In conjunction with the mounting pressure around her impending return to music, it’s the most memorable fit from the weekend! I mean, she totally bucked the festival’s growing expectations for female performers during one of the most hyped sets of the weekend. Thank god!
Lady Gaga
Mother Monster’s set captured the hearts and minds of her devotees, already soft and easily malleable from the ongoing effects of her own personal mayhem. The real fashion story here, however, is not her triumphant return to the Coachella stage, or the many nods to eras past and present throughout. It’s her continued collaborations with Dilara Findikoglu, who made this dress and a variety of others for her in the modern era. What a stunner! The designer’s use of texture and distressing is a staple many have attempted to jack this past year, none to much avail, considering her mastery over draping and depth and structure.
Of course, this could have been a simple white frock, but it’s taken over the edge by her nod to the “Paparazzi” video and later, when she ties in the thematic resonance of her broken hip, an artistic journey it feels she’s just now closed the loop on.
Clairo, Addison Rae and María Zardoya of The Marías
I’d like to append this point with this trio of musicians, who all played with similar elements of the white dress to varying results. It’s perhaps the most prominent motif from the festival! Clairo opted for a deconstructed look, which brought in elements of contrasting lace and mesh and pearls and polka dots. I find it a valiant effort, but ultimately unfruitful when seen against the real thing above. (Here’s another angle.)
Addison Rae took an entirely different route with her white dress, once again playing with the “carefree weirdo” image her team are intent on crafting. Images of the dress, seen during her surprise appearance with Arca, show it flowing as she danced about the stage, tresses thrown to the wind, a grin plastered across her face. It’s hard to watch footage from the night and not feel like she’ll take us all the way there.
This final fit, courtesy of María Zardoya of The Marías, will lead us to the next set of motifs from the festival. But before then, I’d like to take a moment and soak it all in. The draping of the skirt and the plastering of the top, combined with that peek of lace and a nipped in waistline? And that big chunky wrapped necklace with a visible crucifix? Now we’re speaking the language of the Coachella valley! Come down, spirit of Courtney Love, and bless this outfit.
Ciara
Vaquera is for mothers! Print that in your fucking fashion magazines, everyone. Ciara popped up in NYC’s favorite designer, wearing about one million necklaces and the most interesting pair of skorts I’ve ever seen layered over a sporty long sleeve. I found the contrast totally fascinating! There’s clearly the desire to dress like one’s job — that being one of the 21st century’s most successful women in music, while also playing to the spirit of the festival with the denim. And it’s Vaquera at that! I mean, she practically wore this for PAPER specifically.
That said, mind what I said about the crucifixes! Where they made aesthetic sense with María’s outfit, here they power clash with both the denim and the shirt. An interesting reminder that tangled chains of pearls and crucifixes and teeny little gold chains hold the place of yesteryear’s chunky turquoise necklaces and injection molded owls and charm bracelets and chokers.
Queen Latifah
Megan Thee Stallion also brought out Queen Latifah during this set. Off the top, I loved her glam, and these dangly braids and earrings and necklace. It all has an edge I always expect from the Queen, an edge further sharpened by this puffer trench vest. Just totally, utterly fab.
Ravyn Lenae
My personal diva supreme made her Coachella debut in white and cream, continuing the trend of layered white garments across the festival. While my feelings about exposed corsets are extremely Google-able, I love how it’s been deployed here under the structured shrug jacket, expertly unzipped at the sleeves to provide that interesting silhouette. This skirt is also fab, as is her red hair and lace up boots. The whole thing is a resounding success to me, much like this most recent album and her gradual rise to pop dominance amongst the coolest people anyone knows.
Missy Elliot
While I couldn’t find image rights to Missy’s set, I did find this singular shot of her outfit that doubled as a car. It’s an outfit that doubles as a car! I don’t think it needs further input from me, really.
Arca
I’d like to mention that it soars to extreme temperatures at Coachella. No matter, Arca here wore what seems to be head-to-toe leather. Gag it! She looks fab, especially the way that chain with the ponytail has been styled. What’s its purpose? Genuinely who knows, but I’m talking about it!
Lola Young
I’ve had to hear Lola Young’s song just about every time I’ve opened the TikTok app for what seems like years. Then the video for it made its way to Twitter, and I had to hear and see it every day there. Now she’s at Coachella, wearing this, and I’m talking about her all over again. She won, even if this is my least favorite offering from the festival’s Week One performers. It’s a well designed garment and it fits her well, clearly, but I want nothing else to do with it.
I mean, the thematic throughline of playfulness, “messiness” and a lackadaisical Gen Z attitude is obvious in Lola’s recent styling and artistic choices. These things clearly read here, from the hood to the gloves to the teddy shearling trim. It’s just that they have no effect on me, as I’m thoroughly immune to both earnest and ironic detachment, curated or sincere.
Photos via Getty Images